Palm grove in the Draa Valley

Drâa-Tafilalet · Morocco

Zagora and the Draa Valley: guide and Erg Chegaga

Palm groves, mud-brick ksour and the track to the Erg Chegaga dunes

A guide to Zagora and the Draa Valley: Agdz, Tamegroute, M'Hamid and Erg Chegaga. Distances from Marrakech and Ouarzazate, where to stay and when to go.

From Marrakech
About 7 h
Time needed
1–3 nights
Best time
October to April
Big dunes
Erg Chegaga, by 4x4

What to see

In the Draa, what people remember most is the valley rather than the sand.

Agdz

Tamnougalt Kasbah

The former residence of the local chiefs, next to the palm grove and in the shadow of Jbel Kissane.

About 200 km

The Draa palm grove

The road runs right alongside the palms and the mud-brick ksour. The viewpoints between Agdz and Zagora have the best views.

Zagora

Timbuktu sign

It says 52 days by camel. It's the arrival photo, and Jbel Zagora behind it has views at sunset.

20 km south

Tamegroute library

The Koranic library of the Nasiriyya zawiya, and workshops making green pottery fired in clay kilns.

  • Old manuscripts
  • Buy direct from the potter
End of the tarmac

M'Hamid village

The last village before the track. From here the 4x4s and some camel caravans set off for the dunes.

About 2 h of track

Erg Chegaga

Big dunes with no villages around and isolated camps. More remote and less crowded than Erg Chebbi.

Sleeping in the desert

When to go

  • October – NovemberGood timeMild days and cool nights. A good time for the Chegaga.
  • December – FebruaryGood timeSunny days; in the dunes, nights are around 0 °C.
  • March – AprilMixedPleasant, but with windy, sandy days.
  • May – SeptemberBest avoidedTemperatures go above 40 °C. Few Chegaga camps open in high summer.

Villages and stops in the Draa Valley

From Ouarzazate to M'Hamid is about 260 kilometres, and the good stops are spread along the whole valley.

Between Ouarzazate and Agdz

Tizi n'Tinififft viewpoint

The pass before Agdz, with bare mountains in ochre and greenish tones. The descent has tight bends; stop at the viewpoint, not on the verge.

  • 10-minute stop
  • Bends on the way down
Agdz

Agdz souk

The first big village in the valley, at the foot of Jbel Kissane. It has a square with cafés and a weekly souk that people come down to from the villages; ask which day if you want to catch it.

  • Weekly souk
  • Cafés on the square
Mid-valley

Tinzouline ksour

One of the best-preserved mud-brick villages in the Draa. Nearby there are rock engravings, and you need someone from the village to find them.

  • Engravings with a local guide
  • Inhabited ksar
Across the river

Amazrou Mellah

In Amazrou, next to Zagora, there are remains of the old Jewish quarter, where silver was worked. There are jewellery workshops and a palm grove for a walk in the shade.

  • Silver workshops
  • Walk in the palm grove
Towards M'Hamid

Tinfou and its dunes

A small strip of golden dunes by the road. You see them in half an hour and they do for your first photo in the sand, but don't expect a sea of dunes.

  • Half an hour is enough
  • It isn't the Chegaga
Before M'Hamid

Ouled Driss and its ksar

Before M'Hamid, a mud-brick ksar surrounded by palms, with a traditional house you can visit as a museum. It's the last stop with shade before the track to the dunes.

  • House museum
  • Last shade before the track

Typical prices

Camel for an hour
About 100–200 MAD
Green pottery
Plates from about 50 MAD
Set menu in Zagora
About 60–120 MAD
Koranic library
Small donation

1, 2 and 3-day itinerary

Counting from Ouarzazate, with your own car or a driver.

Day 1

Down from Ouarzazate

Leave at 9:00, cross the Tizi n'Tinififft pass, have tea in Agdz and visit Tamnougalt. Stop at the palm grove viewpoints and reach Zagora mid-afternoon, with time for sunset.

  • Tea in Agdz
  • Sunset on Jbel Zagora
Day 2

Tamegroute and the south

A morning at the library and with the Tamegroute potters, a stop at Tinfou and lunch in M'Hamid. There the 4x4 picks you up for the two hours of track and the night in Erg Chegaga.

  • Library in the morning
  • 4x4 from M'Hamid
Day 3

Sunrise in the Chegaga

A high dune at sunrise, then out across the Iriki towards Foum Zguid, or back through M'Hamid. Either way, you'd reach Marrakech after dark: better to sleep in Ouarzazate.

  • Bring a warm layer for sunrise
  • No signal on the track
9 days · photography

A night in a Draa kasbah

On our photography trip you arrive from Merzouga via N'kob and sleep in the valley, so you can photograph the palm grove in the morning light.

  • Morning light on the palm grove
  • Arrival via N'kob
Photography trip
8 days from Agadir

Back from Merzouga through the Draa

On the southern route from Agadir, day five goes from the dunes to Aït Ben Haddou via Alnif, N'kob and the Draa Valley, without driving the same road twice.

  • No road repeated
  • Night in Aït Ben Haddou
Southern route in 8 days

A bit of history

This valley was the route of the caravans crossing the Sahara to Timbuktu with salt, gold and slaves. In the 16th century the Saadians came out of the Draa, the dynasty that later ruled from Marrakech. The Nasiriyya zawiya in Tamegroute had its great period in the 17th century, when it was a centre of learning with influence across the south, and that's where its library comes from. The river almost never reaches the Atlantic: past M'Hamid it disappears into the sand, except in very wet years.

What to eat and what to buy

What the valley produces and what its workshops make.

Autumn

Dates from the palm grove

They're harvested in autumn and sold loose in Zagora and Agdz. Ask to taste first, because some varieties are dry and others soft and very sweet.

  • Harvest in autumn
  • Taste before you buy
Tamegroute

Green-glazed plates

Every piece comes out different, with drips and bubbles in the glaze, and that isn't a defect. Wrap it well: it's fragile and better for decoration than everyday use.

  • Wrap each piece well
  • Buy from the potter
Amazrou

Silver and southern jewellery

Necklaces, fibulae and bracelets in Berber and Tuareg styles. A lot of it is nickel silver or plated metal; if you're paying silver prices, ask to see the hallmark.

  • Ask to see the hallmark
  • Haggle
Zagora and M'Hamid

Turbans for the dunes

A cotton headscarf really does help against sun and sand. It costs little: don't pay the first price, and ask them to show you how to tie it.

  • Cotton, not synthetic
  • Learn to tie it
At the camp

Bread baked in the sand

At some Chegaga camps they bake bread buried in hot sand under the embers. Ask to watch; it comes out with a bit of ash, which you brush off before eating.

  • Ask at the camp
  • Eaten hot
Lunch on the road

Lamb tagine with prunes

In the valley's roadside restaurants it's the standard dish, alongside chicken with lemon. If you're in a hurry, order brochettes: tagine takes a while to cook.

  • Takes a while
  • Brochettes if you're in a hurry

Common mistakes and scams

What we see go wrong most often for people travelling on their own.

Entering Zagora

Motorcyclists who follow you

Lads on motorbikes pull up beside your car on the way into town to offer you a camp or a trip. If you already have a booking, don't stop and don't show any paperwork.

  • Don't stop the car
  • Keep the camp's contact handy
When booking

Prices that change on arrival

Agree in writing what the camp includes: dinner, breakfast, camel and 4x4 transfer. Anything not in writing usually gets charged separately.

  • Everything in writing
  • Ask about the 4x4
Chegaga track

Trying it without a 4x4

You won't make it in an ordinary car: there's soft sand and dry riverbeds. Rental contracts usually forbid leaving the tarmac, and insurance doesn't cover the track.

  • Soft sand
  • Insurance doesn't cover the track
In the dunes

Setting off with too little water

There are no shops on the track or in the dunes. Carry at least two litres per person for the day, a cap and sunscreen, and a warm layer for winter nights.

  • Two litres per person
  • Warm layer in winter
What to pack
Short on time

There and back in a day

From Marrakech it's about seven hours each way, so a day trip makes no sense. If all you want is a desert dinner without much driving, Agafay is an hour away.

  • Seven hours each way
  • Agafay as an alternative
Dinner in Agafay

How to get there

360 km · 7 h

Route from Marrakech

Over the Tichka, through Ouarzazate and down the valley. It's the route of the two-day trip.

Aït Ben Haddou and Ouarzazate
165 km · 3 h

From Ouarzazate

Over the Tizi n'Tinififft pass and through Agdz, with stops in the palm grove.

5–6 h

N'kob road

From Merzouga, the southern road via Alnif, N'kob and Tazzarine. Good for doing a loop without repeating roads.

See Merzouga
4x4 track

Out via the Iriki

From the Chegaga west across the dry lake to Foum Zguid, about three hours. Only with a driver who knows the track.

Before you go

Zagora adverts often use photos of the high dunes of Erg Chebbi. Always ask where the camp is and how much sand there is around it. Take out cash in Zagora: there are few ATMs in M'Hamid and none in the Chegaga. If you want to see more than one desert, we can organise the full loop; get in touch.

Where to stay

Town

Hotels in Zagora

Many have a pool and a garden in the palm grove. Comfortable for breaking the journey before heading down to M'Hamid.

Outskirts

Outskirts of Zagora

Tents next to small dunes, a few minutes from town. This is what the short trip includes.

Erg Chegaga

Chegaga camps

Isolated, with solar power and an en-suite bathroom in the higher-end ones. Ask what's included before booking.

  • No signal at many
  • Bring a warm layer in winter
Internet and SIM cards

Which desert and which trip to choose

2 days

Desert camp near Zagora

A camel ride over small dunes and a night in a tent. The shortest option from Marrakech, though it's a lot of driving.

Zagora in 2 days
3–4 days

Chegaga dunes

High dunes and silence. You need an extra day for the track from M'Hamid.

Adventure and 4x4
3 days or more

Merzouga and Erg Chebbi

High dunes with tarmac right up to the edge. Further from Marrakech and busier.

Merzouga or Zagora
5 days

The great south

From Merzouga to Zagora via N'kob, Tamegroute and back up the Draa.

See the trip
4 days

Agadir and the desert

Back from Merzouga via N'kob and the Draa Valley.

See the trip

Frequently asked questions about Zagora and the Draa Valley

How long does it take from Marrakech to Zagora?

About seven hours with stops, for roughly 360 kilometres. You cross the High Atlas by the Tizi n'Tichka, pass through Ouarzazate and drop down the Draa Valley. That is why the two-day trip involves a lot of driving.

What is Erg Chegaga and how do you get there?

It is a field of big dunes west of M'Hamid, about 95 kilometres south of Zagora. From M'Hamid there is no more tarmac and you get there by 4x4 on a track, about two hours. The usual plan is to sleep there in a camp.

Are there dunes in Zagora?

Few, and small ones, such as those at Tinfou or at the camps on the outskirts. The landscape around the town is stone and palm grove. For high dunes you have to go to Erg Chegaga or Merzouga.

When is the best time to go to Zagora?

October to April. In summer it easily goes above 40 °C and we don't recommend it. In winter the days are pleasant, but in Chegaga the night can drop close to 0 °C. In spring there are windy days with blowing sand.

Can you go from Zagora to Merzouga?

Yes, on the road through Tazzarine, N'kob and Alnif, five to six hours. It is a good way to do a circuit of the south without repeating any road, as on our five-day tour.

Tours that include Zagora and the Draa Valley

Private and small-group routes with a local guide.

Sunset in the desert
Events and festivalsRecommended
5 days / 4 nightsFrom MarrakechPrivate or shared

New Year's Eve in the Merzouga Dunes, from Marrakech

New Year's Eve among the Merzouga dunes, with a gala dinner and Berber drums by the fire, on a five-day trip from Marrakech through the Atlas, the Dades and the Todra.

Camel caravan on the dunes under a blue sky
Sahara desertRecommended
3 days / 2 nightsFrom MarrakechPrivate or shared

3-Day Merzouga Desert Tour from Marrakech

Three private days from Marrakech to the Erg Chebbi dunes and back: Tichka, Aït Ben Haddou, Dades, Todra, a camel ride and a night in camp. The last day is a long one.

Dromedary caravan crossing the Merzouga dunes in warm afternoon light
Group tours
8 days / 7 nightsFrom MarrakechSmall group

8-Day Group Tour from Marrakech to the South and the Desert

Eight days in a group from Marrakech: a guided city tour, a night in the Dades, two nights in Merzouga with a free day in the dunes, and a return via the Draa and Aït Ben Haddou.

Camp in the desert near Zagora
Sahara desert
2 days / 1 nightFrom MarrakechPrivate

Zagora desert in 2 days from Marrakech

Two days by private car from Marrakech to the Draa Valley: Aït Ben Haddou, palm groves, a sunset camel ride and a night at a camp by the Zagora dunes, which are small.

Camels among the dunes in a dusty haze
Photography tours
9 days / 8 nightsFrom MarrakechSmall group

9-Day Photography Tour of Southern Morocco

Nine days to photograph southern Morocco in good light: Aït Ben Haddou, the Dades, the Todra and Erg Chebbi, in a group of 4 to 8 people with a photographer guide.

Riverbed with kasbahs in the background
Private tours
8 days / 7 nightsFrom AgadirPrivate

Anti-Atlas, kasbahs and the Sahara: 8 days from Agadir

Eight private days through the less-visited south: the Anti-Atlas around Tafraoute, Taroudant, the Merzouga desert, the kasbahs, Marrakech and Essaouira, starting and ending in Agadir.

Green valley between cliffs
Private tours
5 days / 4 nightsFrom MarrakechPrivate

5-Day Southern Morocco Tour: Kasbahs, Merzouga and Zagora

Five private days in the south from Marrakech: Aït Ben Haddou, the Dades, the Todra, the Merzouga dunes, Zagora and the Draa Valley, with 4 to 7 hour drives.

Would you like help planning your trip to Zagora and the Draa Valley?

Tell us your dates, how many people are travelling and what you'd like to see. Within 24 hours we'll send you a route and a price.