Meknes and Volubilis: imperial city and Roman ruins

Bab Mansour and el-Hedim

The gate of green tiles and marble facing the square. In the evening the square fills with stalls and families.

Heri es-Souani

Moulay Ismail's granaries and stables, with walls so thick the grain stayed cool. Next door is the Agdal basin.

Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail

One of the few holy places open to non-Muslims. Check beforehand that it's open.

Volubilis archaeological site

The Orpheus and Hercules mosaics in place, the Arch of Caracalla, the basilica and the capitol.

• An hour and a half with a guide
• Almost no shade

Moulay Idriss Zerhoun

A white town spread over two hills. The shrine is closed to non-Muslims; the viewpoint at the top isn't.

Bou Inania and Dar Jamaï

A Marinid madrasa and an arts museum in a 19th-century palace, a few minutes from the square.

Square market

On one side of the square is where locals shop: mounds of olives, honey pastries, spices, dried fruit and nuts. A good place to taste and buy by weight.

• Olives by weight
• Best in the morning

Souks towards Bab Berdaine

The covered souks run down from the Great Mosque towards the north gate: fabric, babouches and blacksmiths. There are few tourist shops and nobody chases you.

• Little pressure
• Close early on Fridays

Place Lalla Aouda

A large, quiet square that once fronted the old Dar el-Kebira palace, of which only walls remain. From here you walk on to the mausoleum.

• Quiet by day
• On the way to the mausoleum

Qara prison

Underground galleries next to the mausoleum where, according to tradition, Moulay Ismail held Christian captives. It isn't always open; ask before you go.

• May be closed
• Ask first

Hamria, the new town

Across the Boufekrane river, with the station, banks, cafés and most of the hotels. Petits taxis run constantly to the medina.

• Train station
• Hotels with parking

Vineyards on the outskirts

The Meknes plain is Morocco's main wine region, among olive groves and wheat fields. Some wineries in the area offer visits and tastings if you book ahead.

• Tastings by booking
• You need a car

Evening at el-Hedim

Arrive in the afternoon, drop your bags at the riad and head out to the square as the stalls light up. Have something simple to eat at the edge, with Bab Mansour lit up opposite.

• Riad near the square
• Dinner at the stalls

The imperial city on foot

Bab Mansour early, Lalla Aouda, the mausoleum if it's open and a walk along the walls to Heri es-Souani and the Agdal. In the afternoon, Bou Inania and the souks.

• About 8 km on foot
• Petit taxi back

Volubilis and Jbel Zerhoun

Volubilis first thing, lunch in Moulay Idriss and back along the Zerhoun road, through olive groves and small villages. If you're into wine, a winery on the plain.

• Volubilis before the heat
• Lunch in Moulay Idriss

On your own from Fez

Train to Meknes, shared taxi to Moulay Idriss and another taxi, or an hour's walk through the olive groves, to Volubilis. For the return, agree the taxi in advance: they're scarce in the afternoon.

• Leave early
• Carry cash in small notes

Arriving from Chefchaouen

Coming down from the Rif, Volubilis is on the way at midday, Meknes in the afternoon and Fez for the night. That's day three of our grand tour.

• Volubilis at midday
• Night in Fez

On the way to Chefchaouen

On the imperial cities trip you leave Fez in the morning, see Meknes and Volubilis and sleep in the blue city.

• Leave Fez in the morning
• Night in the blue city

Olives and preserved lemon

The square's market has dozens of varieties: green, black, with preserved lemon or with harissa. Ask to taste and buy by weight.

• Taste first
• Buy by weight

Damascened iron

Meknes's own craft: silver thread inlaid into iron, on plates, boxes and jewellery boxes. In the medina there are workshops where you can watch the work with punch and hammer.

• Watch the craftsman at work
• Small pieces, easy to carry

New-season olive oil

This is olive country. After the autumn harvest there's new oil at the roadside stalls; ask for a small bottle to try before you buy more.

• Harvest in autumn
• Taste first

Nougat from the holy town

In the streets leading up to the shrine they sell almond and peanut nougat by weight, alongside candles and pilgrimage items. It's what Moroccan pilgrims take home.

• By weight
• Next to the shrine

Babouches and fabric from the souks

In the covered souks towards Bab Berdaine you can buy babouches, jellabas and fabric at local prices. There's less choice than in Fez, but also far less hassle.

• Local prices
• Little hassle

Brochettes and snails

At nightfall the stalls around the edge of the square grill kefta brochettes and serve snails in broth. It's the cheapest dinner in town; choose the stalls with the most locals.

• At nightfall
• Stalls full of locals

Walking on the mosaics

They're in the open and some aren't fenced off. Don't walk on them, and don't let anyone pour water on them to make them shine for a photo, even if it's offered.

• Look from the edge
• No water for the photo

Heat at Volubilis

The site has almost no shade, and in July and August it goes above 35 °C. Bring water, a cap and sunscreen, and if you can, go in first thing or late in the afternoon.

• Two litres per person
• Cap and sunscreen

Photographing pilgrims

This is a place of pilgrimage. Don't take close-up photos of people going to the shrine, and keep your shoulders and knees covered, in summer too.

• Covering clothes
• Photos from a distance

Unofficial guides on the square

Unofficial guides will approach you offering to take you to the granaries or a workshop. If you want a guide, ask at your riad: official guides carry accreditation.

• Ask your riad for a guide
• Visible accreditation

Different hours during Ramadan

Many shops close in the afternoon and open at night, and monuments may cut their hours. Plan your visit for the morning.

• Visits in the morning
• Shops open at night

Moulay Idriss moussem

The town holds its big annual pilgrimage and fills with people. It's a good time to see it lively, but not to find accommodation or parking.

• Book well ahead
• Heavy traffic

An hour from Fez

By car or train. The usual plan is a day trip, going back to Fez to sleep.

Rabat motorway

By motorway or train. Meknes works as a stop before reaching Fez.

Down from the Rif

From Chefchaouen, the road down from the Rif passes close to Volubilis, which is why many routes stop there on the way to Fez.

No public transport

There's no regular public transport to Volubilis or Moulay Idriss. Car, grand taxi or an organised route.

Riads in Meknes

Close to el-Hedim, cheaper and quieter than in Fez.

Guesthouses near Volubilis

Only a few, in the countryside or in Moulay Idriss. They let you get into the site first thing.

Back to Fez for the night

What almost everyone does, because Fez is an hour away.

Fez, the north and the desert

From Chefchaouen to Volubilis and Meknes before crossing the Middle Atlas.

Tangier, Chefchaouen and the desert

Volubilis and Meknes on day two, on the way to Fez.

Grand tour from Tangier

Day three, from Chefchaouen to Fez with both stops.

Guided tour of Fez

If you go back to Fez for the night, the medina is best seen with an official guide the next day.

Imperial cities

More tours with Meknes, Fez, Rabat and Marrakech.