Royal Palace square in Tetouan with the white medina

Tanger-Tetouan-Al Hoceima · Morocco

What to see in Tetouan: medina, new town, beaches

An Andalusian medina and a Spanish-era new town below the Rif Mountains

A guide to Tetouan: its Andalusian medina, the Protectorate-era new town, museums, the Martil beaches and how to get there from Tangier, Ceuta and Chefchaouen.

From Tangier
About 1 h
Time needed
Half a day to 1 day
Languages
A lot of Spanish is spoken
UNESCO
Medina since 1997

What to see

Half the city was built by Andalusians and the other half by the Spanish during the Protectorate.

Starting point

Feddan square

Facing the royal palace, between the Spanish quarter and the medina. This is where you go into the medina.

Protectorate

The Spanish Ensanche

White buildings with balconies, the church of Nuestra Señora de las Victorias and cafés along Avenue Mohammed V.

Seven gates

Andalusian medina

Quarters arranged by trade: carpenters, jewellers, tanners by Bab Mkabar. Far fewer tourist shops than in Fez.

  • A medina where people live
  • Best by day
Bab el-Okla

School of Arts and Crafts

You can watch the students working on zellige, carved wood and plasterwork. The building is one of the finest in the city.

Museums

Ethnographic and archaeological

The first is in a bastion of the city wall; the second has pieces from Lixus and Tamuda.

10 min

Martil and the coast

A long sandy beach. Further north are M'diq and Cabo Negro, which fill up in summer.

When to go

  • April – JuneGood timeMild, the Rif is green and there are few people.
  • July – AugustMixedCrowded coast and higher prices. The Ceuta border is overloaded.
  • September – OctoberGood timeThe sea is still warm and the city gets back to its normal pace.
  • November – MarchMixedIt rains often and the medina empties early.

Tetouan neighbourhoods and areas

Only a square separates the medina from the Spanish quarter, and you can walk everywhere.

Next to the royal palace

Old Mellah

The Jewish quarter, with straighter streets and wooden balconies. A Sephardic community lived here and spoke Haketia, a mix of old Castilian, Hebrew and Arabic.

  • Next to Feddan square
  • Wooden balconies
Centre of the medina

Souk el-Fouki

Women from the mountains, in their straw hats with pompoms, sell fresh cheese, bread and vegetables here. Next door, in the Guersa el-Kebira, is the fabric market.

  • Best in the morning
  • Ask before taking photos
Spanish quarter

Teatro Español and façades

Near Place Moulay el-Mehdi, the 1920s Teatro Español is still standing, along with many modernist and neo-Moorish buildings. Look above the shop signs.

  • Protectorate architecture
  • Look up
All over the medina

Skundo fountains

The medina still has an old network of channels, the skundo, carrying water from the springs on Jbel Dersa to fountains and houses. You'll see tiled fountains on many corners.

  • Tiled fountains
  • Water from Jbel Dersa
East gate

Bab el-Okla

One of the medina's seven gates, next to the School of Arts and Crafts and close to the ethnographic museum. A good point to start or end your visit, with taxis close by.

  • School of Arts next door
  • Taxis nearby
Residential streets

Neighbourhood ovens

In many parts of the medina, people still take their bread to the communal oven on wooden boards. In the morning you'll see children carrying trays through the streets.

  • In the morning
  • Bread on wooden boards

Typical prices

Taxi to Martil
About 5–10 MAD per seat
Bus to Chefchaouen
About 30–40 MAD
Simple meal
About 50–100 MAD
Tea on a terrace
About 10–15 MAD

1, 2 and 3-day itinerary

You can see Tetouan in a day, but as a base for the north it's good for three.

Day 1 · morning

Feddan, the Mellah and the souks

Start at 10:00 on Feddan square, go in through the Mellah and cross the craft souks to Bab el-Okla. Before lunch, the School of Arts and Crafts.

  • Comfortable shoes
  • Best Monday to Thursday
Day 1 · afternoon

Spanish quarter and coffee

Walk along Avenue Mohammed V to Place Moulay el-Mehdi, have a coffee on a terrace and, if there's time, visit the ethnographic museum in the bastion.

  • Protectorate buildings
  • Terraces on the avenue
Day 2

Martil coast and Cabo Negro

A beach morning in Martil or a walk to Cabo Negro, about twenty minutes away. In the afternoon, the modern art centre in the old railway station.

  • Long sandy beach
  • Packed in August
Day 3

Oued Laou along the coast

About 45 kilometres of road past cliffs and coves to the village of Oued Laou. In summer the beach shacks serve fish; out of season there's hardly anyone.

  • Winding road
  • Be back before dark
1 h 15 by road

Day trip to Chefchaouen

Leave at 9:00 to get there before the groups from Tangier and Fez, and come back in the afternoon. We cover what to see there in our guide to the blue city.

  • Leave at 9:00
  • Back in the afternoon
What to see in Chefchaouen
About 90 min

Akchour waterfalls

The pools and waterfalls of Talassemtane National Park, beyond Chefchaouen. In summer it gets very crowded; go on a weekday, in shoes that can get wet.

  • Cold water all year
  • Bring food and water

A bit of history

In the late 15th century it was refounded by Sidi al-Mandari, a man from Granada who arrived with Andalusian families after the fall of the Nasrid kingdom; that's why it's called the daughter of Granada. Spanish troops occupied it in 1860, after the Hispano-Moroccan War, and stayed for two years. From 1913 to 1956 it was the capital of the Spanish Protectorate, and that period left the Spanish quarter, the Spanish spoken by older people and even the football club, Moghreb, founded in 1922.

What to eat and where

Tetouan's cooking mixes the Andalusian tradition, the Rif mountains and a bit of the Spanish years.

Medina pastry shops

Almond and honey pastries

Tetouan is known for good pastries in the Andalusian tradition: almond biscuits, chebakia and briouats with honey. They're sold by weight and travel well.

  • By weight
  • They travel well
Souk el-Fouki

Jben, the mountain cheese

Fresh goat's or cow's cheese that women from the villages bring wrapped in dwarf palm leaves. It's eaten with oil and bread, the same day.

  • Fresh that day
  • Ask to taste
Cold mornings

Bissara in a clay bowl

A thick broad bean purée with a drizzle of olive oil and cumin on top. In the medina it's served from early on and it's the cheapest breakfast in town.

  • Cheap breakfast
  • With bread and oil
Moroccan food
Martil seafront

Sardines and fried fish

Grills and fried-fish places facing Martil beach, serving sardines, anchovies and squid. Ask the price before you sit down; in August it goes up with the crowds.

  • Price first
  • More expensive in August
Northern cooking

Sardine kefta tagine

Minced sardine meatballs stewed in a tagine with tomato and coriander sauce. It's a dish from the coast and from home kitchens in the north, and you'll find it in the medina at lunchtime.

  • At lunchtime
  • A northern dish
Spanish quarter

Churros in the morning

Some cafés in the Spanish quarter still serve freshly made churros at breakfast, a habit left over from the Protectorate years. They come with milky coffee.

  • With milky coffee
  • Spanish quarter

Shopping and crafts

Fewer tourist shops than in other medinas, and more workshops where things really are made.

Carpenters' souk

Carved and painted wood

The workshops make ceilings, doors and small tables painted with flowers in the Andalusian style. A small painted box is easy to fit in a suitcase.

  • Small box, easy to carry
  • Workshops in the medina
Guersa el-Kebira

Striped blankets and embroidery

Fabric, silk embroidery and the red-and-white striped wool blankets that mountain women wear as skirts. They're sold in the Guersa el-Kebira.

  • Thick wool
  • Red and white stripes
Souk el-Fouki

Mountain hats

The straw hats with cords and wool pompoms worn by women from the villages. You buy them in the souk, and they're one of the few souvenirs you'll only see in the north.

  • Only in the north
  • Light but bulky
Bab Mkabar

Babouches and leather

Near the Bab Mkabar tannery there are babouche and leather workshops. It's a small neighbourhood tannery with no viewing terraces for tourists, and you buy straight from the craftsman.

  • Buy at the workshop
  • Strong smell near the vats
Medina workshops

Tiles and zellige

Some workshops sell single pieces or small zellige panels. They're very heavy: if you buy, ask them to pack it well for checked luggage.

  • Packed for checked luggage
  • Heavier than it looks
Haggling

Calmer prices

There are few shops aimed at tourists, and in the local ones the price is close to fixed. Haggle over crafts; not over food or everyday clothes.

  • Prices close to fixed
  • Haggle only for crafts
Money and tipping

How to get there

60 km · 1 h

Tangier expressway

By expressway. If you arrive by ferry from Tarifa or Algeciras, it's the first easy stop.

Travelling from Spain
40 km + border

Ceuta border

Via El Tarajal and Fnideq. In summer and on public holidays the border can take hours; check before you go.

1 h 15

Rif road

Towards Chefchaouen, a mountain road through the Rif, winding but in good condition.

See Chefchaouen
About 4 h 30

On to Fez

Via Chefchaouen and Ouazzane. Better split with a night in Chefchaouen.

See Fez

The 2027 eclipse

On 2 August 2027 the path of totality of the solar eclipse crosses the Strait of Gibraltar, and northern Morocco falls inside it. Tetouan and the nearby coast will be in high demand those days; if you're interested, book early. Times and the exact path are in our guide to the 2027 solar eclipse in Morocco.

Where to stay

Medina

Riads and restored houses

Our preferred area for one night: quiet, terraces with mountain views and moderate prices.

Spanish quarter

Hotels in the centre

Convenient if you arrive by car or bus, with the medina five minutes' walk away.

Coast

Cabo Negro beaches

Beach hotels for summer. Out of season many of them are almost empty.

How long and which trip to choose

Half a day

A stop on the route

The medina, the Spanish quarter and the arts school between Tangier and Chefchaouen. That's how we do it on our northern tours.

See Tangier
1 night

With museums and the beach

A museum in the morning and the afternoon in Martil. The riads in the medina are quiet and cheap.

2 nights

A base for the north

From here it's easy to get to Chefchaouen, Akchour or the Mediterranean coast towards Oued Laou.

4 days

Northern Morocco from Tangier

Tangier, Tetouan and Chefchaouen on a short tour of the north.

See the trip
12 days

Grand tour from Tangier

Day two, from Tangier to Chefchaouen with a stop in Tetouan.

See the trip
15 days

The whole of Morocco

Tetouan on the way to Chefchaouen, after Tangier.

See the trip

Frequently asked questions about Tetouan

Is Spanish spoken in Tetouan?

Quite a lot, especially among older people, in shops and in hotels, because of the Protectorate legacy and the proximity of Ceuta. Younger people speak more French and English, although many understand Spanish from television.

How do you get from Ceuta to Tetouan?

You cross the Tarajal border into Fnideq and from there it is about 40 minutes by grand taxi or car. The border time is what varies most: it can be quick or take hours in summer and on public holidays. Check the situation before you go.

What is the difference between Tetouan and Chefchaouen?

Tetouan is a large city with a residential medina and a Spanish quarter; Chefchaouen is a mountain town with a blue-painted medina and far more tourism. They are an hour and a quarter apart, and it is worth seeing both on the same trip.

Is it safe to visit the Tetouan medina?

Yes, with the normal precautions you would take in any city. Some fake guides wait at the entrance; a polite no is enough. At night the medina streets empty early, so it is better to visit during the day.

Tours that include Tetouan

Private and small-group routes with a local guide.

Minaret among palm trees in Tangier
Imperial cities
4 days / 3 nightsFrom TangierPrivate

Northern Morocco in 4 days from Tangier

Four days by private car through the north: Tangier and Cape Spartel, Tetouan, two nights in Chefchaouen and back via Asilah. Pick-up from the ferry from Tarifa or Algeciras.

Cats on a blue staircase in Chefchaouen
Imperial cities
12 days / 11 nightsFrom TangierPrivate

12-day grand tour from Tangier to Essaouira

Twelve private days from Tangier to Marrakech: Tetouan, Chefchaouen, Fez, two nights in Erg Chebbi, the southern kasbahs and a night in Essaouira. Easy if you arrive by ferry.

Would you like help planning your trip to Tetouan?

Tell us your dates, how many people are travelling and what you'd like to see. Within 24 hours we'll send you a route and a price.